Monday 2 May 2011

West coast tour: Day 3

South Uist to middle of nowhere (North Uist). Turned out a slightly longer day than expected. The plan I made this morning was to cruise leisurely northward stopping whereever I fancied eventually ending up in an idilic camping spot somewhere on Benbecula or North Uist. I've found my idilic camping spot but it took a bit more work and a few more miles than I expected!

The day started perfectly with bright sunshine and breeze to keep the flys away. Once again I slept like a log. 9hours without a problem! Porridge again and packed up by about 9am I thought I must be getting into the swing of touring, normally I'm champing at the bit by 8am! On the way back across the dunes I stoprd to inspect some old prehistoric dwellings which acording to the board had been inhabited from 1100BC till 200AD, some 900years! I thought that was pretty nuts! 900years in a crummy wee hut!

Anyway after marvelling at the lack of ambition of Uists ancestors to develop beyond the bronze age I pedaled across to Loch Boisdale to see if I could get a coffee and a cake. Far to much to expect on a Sunday morning in these parts though! The place was a ghost town. So I headed back for the road north and a few miles along it found a visitor center with a tea room. A little bit like the shop in The League of Gentlemen! But they had cake and the gift shop did post cards and it got me out of the wind so I was very happy. I also manager to plug in me blackberry to charge so it was all good! The guy there advised that I could get provisions at the coop on Benbecula but on North uist everything would be shut on a Sunday. So I headed off north again expecting to be at benbecula by about lunch time but u must have been going slow and it was clearly further than it looked as the time got to 1.30 and I was still some way off!

Touring is a good thing though because if you want to stop you can. So I found a nice spot at the side of a wee loch and had a beautiful hour sitting in the son eating cheese and oat cakes and stuff and enjoying the view! I carried on north again after than and felt strong enough to include a detoure to visit a closed smoke house shop. I love smoked fish and the sign said 2.5 miles so I thought I'd try but it was dead when I got there.

Benbecula had the coop I was needing and it does have some nice beaches on the west coast. But I was slightly disappointed as I was expecting it to be beach lovers utopia. And its not. The bit at the north end by the airport is pretty minging. Ok there's a huge beach you can see in the distance but there's also a scabby housing scheme an ex military base. The best buy about the north end of the island is the causeway across to north uist!

And if I'm being totally honest I haven't found North Uist a whole lot more appealing. The beaches are inaccessible hidden away behind miles of farm land the roads are smooth but the drivers are wankers and overall its not a patch on the southern islands. Barra has to be the highlight so far. What happened to the rule that you always waved when someone gave way on a single track road? Does it not apply to bikes? I've decided I'll just wave like an idiot at them anyway and hopefully it'll rub off!

Anyway I had a great meal tonight of beef with black bean sauce followed by sticky toffee pud with custard washed down with a bottle of red! Maybe that's way the fighting talk is coming out! Tomorrow is a shorter day with a run up to get the 1330 ferry across to Harris. Hopefully the wind won't get up in the night as my tent is pitched at the top of the beach in the sand and will blow away pretty easily!

Todays pic is a beautiful cottage I saw on South Uist this morning :-)

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