Tuesday 3 May 2011

West coast tour: Day 5

Harris to Ullapool. Once again lots of sunshine today! Can't believe what a jammy git I am! Made an early start today so it was cold and windy when I set off. Seemed a shame to be leaving such a beautiful place. I said before that Barra was a highlight in the Outer Hebrides, well for me Harris is the other highlight. Ironically these are two islands I've been to before! I'd still say my favourite is Mingalay, but Harris is special!
I'd made my way round to Tarbert by 9am hoping to get to Stornoway by 12 in order to faff round town a bit before the ferry. Luckily the wind had shifted direction and I had a great tailwind for a change making speed good. Past Tarbet there is a large hill to be negociated. It certainly seemed large pushing half a ton of gear anyway! Must be about 2miles averaging 6-7% and max about 12%. Hard going! The descent on the other side was superb though! Pic above.
After that comes the crossing of Lewis. I've been to Lewis before several years ago and wasn't particularly inspired by it. It is rich in history and has some great scenery however it is the ugly sister alongside Harris. Fortunately the tailwind kept up and I flew?! northward averaging and impressive? 15mph and reaching Stornoway shortly before 12. Time for a bit of gift shopping, coffee&cake and restocking a few provisions.
They haven't full adapted to cafe culture in Stornoway yet unfortunately. Despite it being a beautiful sunny day and there being tables set out in the sun there was noone sat at them. You had to go into the coffee shop (via the library?!) buy you're food then return outside through the library again to use the tables. A bizarre customer experience but that seemed to be what was on offer! The food was good though, I had a large slice of apple pie with cream as reward for managing 47miles before lunch.
You meet some interesting people on ferries travelling alone. Yesterday I meet a cyclist who was riding from Barra to Stornoway in one day. This is posible going north if you catch the first boat in the morning from Barra to Eriskay. Its maybe about 110miles riding. Depending on the wind direction and traffic (single track roads are a PITA!) it could be an easy run or a major ball ache. I guess if you're a roadie living in the islands your choices of route are kind of limited. Not like living in Stirling where route options are endless.
Todays interesting punters were a couple of guys who were on a trip out to St Kilda the previous day with a company called Sea Venture (I think). Lucky with the weather they were, they said it was a brilliant day. I passed a place signposted for St Kilda view point yesterday but it was 1.5miles up a hill and the weather was kind of hazy, so I have it a miss. Some day it would be cool to go though.
Another highlight of the day I've pictured above. The Coast Guard were doing some training and winched a guy down to our boat a couple of times. Hard not to get a smile on your face seeing such an impressive aircraft hovering over head!

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